You're reading: Uzhhorod is Ukraine’s far western getaway

UZHHOROD, Ukraine - To catch the best panoramic view of Ukraine's westernmost provincial capital just 2.5 kilometers from European Union member Slovakia, visit the high ground of the city's eponymous castle.

The impregnable Uzhhorod Castle, built in the 15th-18th centuries by the Italian tycoon family of Druget, is the best-known attraction of Zakarpattya Oblast’s capital of 115,000 people.

Standing on a 30-meter-high hill, the citadel offers a scenic relief of old houses, cathedrals and a wooden church – all not far away from the Ukrainian part of the Carpathian Mountains. The serpentine river Uzh – Ukrainian for water snake – bisects the city.

As an administrative center, this Transcarpathian city isn’t big by Ukrainian standards. The region has a diverse ethnic population of Ukrainians, Hungarians, Romanians, and approximately 100,000 Roma, of whom 5,000 live in Uzhhorod.

A first-time visitor might doubt that local residents actually have jobs, judging by the number of people frequenting outdoor cafes as they enjoy the autumn sun at any time of the day. The weather in the city is usually a couple of degrees higher than in the rest of Ukraine.

A woman pours wine from a barrel during the Sunny Drink festival in Uzhhorod on May 3. (UNIAN)

In the Soviet era, most of the city’s population was employed at one of the six major plants that Uzhhorod had. After 1990, the plants either have shuttered or operate at severely diminished capacity. So, many in Uzhhorod shifted over to the service industry, while others travel to nearby Slovakia and Czech Republic for work.

Today, Uzhhorod is struggling to become a top Ukrainian tourist destination. Hennadii Moskal, the oblast governor, told the Kyiv Post that the area is growing in popularity after many Ukrainian travelers crossed Russia-annexed Crimea off their holiday calendars.

“But much more work needs to be done to make the city better for tourism,” Moskal said.

He cited poor roads as a major regional problem. Next year he hopes to repair them. Even the central parts of Uzhhorod has many potholes and cracks, and not a single traffic light works there.

Mukacheve, a city 41 kilometers to the southeast, is Uzhhorod’s nearest regional tourism competitor. Smaller in size, its historical buildings and spirit of a medieval town draws plenty of sightseers. When staying in Uzhhorod, many opt for a one-day trip to the historic town, which also has a 14th-17th century castle.

Also worth seeing in Uzhhorod is the Museum of Carpathian Architecture, an outdoor exhibition of the houses that dot the region.

The city center is a labyrinth of cozy patios and narrow, cobble-stone streets. Wine tastings can be had at a number of cellars for Hr 365. Mine took place in the dungeon of the castle (33 Capitulna Street). Afterward, limited edition wine could be purchased for Hr 150-300 per bottle.

There’s an abundance of eateries too.

For authentic regional cuisine visit the Old Café (14 Voloshyna Street). It offers a broad menu that includes the must-haves of local food – the corn-and-cheese dish banush, and meat soup bograch.

Foreign tourists often prefer Antresol café by Mrs. Greenwich (1A Koryatovycha St.), which offers a range of soups, pizzas and pies. The interior resembles Central Perk, the iconic fictional café from the “Friends” TV sitcom. The staff speaks English.

How to get there:

By train. Several trains go from the Kyiv Central Railway Station to Uzhhorod three times a day. The trip takes 15 hours. One-way tickets start at Hr 145.

By plane. There are regular flights from Kyiv to Uzhhorod, with prices starting at $134.

By car. Uzhhorod is 809 kilometers away from Kyiv. The drive takes nearly 10 hours.

Where to stay:

Atlant Hotel is a cozy hotel in the center of the old city on 27 Koryatovycha Sq. Prices here start at Hr 350 for a single room, breakfast included.

Old Continent Hotel (4 Shandora Petefi Sq.) is a more expensive option, calling itself the best hotel in the city. Rooms start at Hr 2,000 per night.

Where to eat:

Antresol café by Mrs. Greenwich (1A Koryatovycha St.) offers pizza, pasta, and coffee. Old Café (14 Voloshyna St.) is good choice for traditional cuisine of Zakarpattya. Uzhhorod Castle Restaurant (33 Capitulna St.) offers a medieval atmosphere. Café Le Bouledogue (13 Korso Street) is a venue devoted to French bulldogs.

Kyiv Post staff writer Veronika Melkozerova can be reached at [email protected] .