Atmosphere is to a fashion show what decor is to a restaurant. Perhaps that’s why the recently-opened Karavan, which specializes in Uzbek cuisine, was an appropriate venue in which American fashion photographer Camilo Him could enjoy an authentic Central Asian meal and talk about his aspirations for Ukrainian fashion...
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Educated as an architect in his native Los Angeles, Him decided to go into fashion photography and moved to New York in 1994.
“There are too many conflicts in the world, so fashion – like sports – is something that unites people. We’re interested in fashion trends, we enjoy watching the shows,” Him said. “Even when it comes to Oscar nominations, we don’t look at who will get the awards, but what those people wear,” he said.
Over iced tea (Hr 10), he told the story of how he overcame his initial stereotypes of Ukraine. Him visited Kyiv for the first time last November, on a visit which gave the photographer opportunity to compare his impressions of the Ukrainian capital to the former Russian capital St. Petersburg – his first glimpse of the former Soviet Union in 1994. He remarked that “Kyiv is a well-taken-care-of city…. It reminded me very much of a French city.”
After working in Russia, Him did photo shoots in Yalta, Sudak and other Crimean resorts; Kyiv was the next logical step. Since his first visit here, Him returns regularly, shooting for the Paris-based fashion magazine L’Officiel as well as for Cosmopolitan, Bazaar and Vogue. He recently began working for L’Officiel, Elle and Ego in Kyiv.
Now his mission is to introduce Ukrainian models to the international fashion scene. He does so by inviting designers from around the world, some of whom are his personal friends, to Kyiv.
“I’m kind of a cultural bridge right now,” Him said. “Ukrainian fashion editors are very good; they have good taste, but there’s a certain gap between local models and their idea of the fashion industry versus Western perceptions,” he said.
While waiting for the pyramid eggplant salad starter (Hr 26) and rolls of fried eggplant stuffed with kernels, garlic and mayonnaise (Hr 30), Him described his first experiences working with local models. He also didn’t hesitate to order a cheburek, a spicy deep-fried meat pie stuffed with veal and onion and served with adjika, a spicy hot-pepper sauce (Hr 25).
“There are big differences between Western models and Ukrainian models,” Him began. “They’re all beautiful here, but what they should understand is that physical beauty is not all that’s needed to become a top international model. They might not be so beautiful, but something should come from inside.
“Also, their heavy make-up style, high-heeled shoes and mini-skirts create an impression that they’re prostitutes. They have to change this,” he cautioned.
“Very often Ukrainian models look like fashion victims, although wearing a full set of clothing from a Gucci boutique. All these labels don’t mean that they have their own style. Fashion is about combination; understanding what goes with what. Fashion is fun.”
So far, the only Ukrainian models to have made it big are Tetyana Brashnyk (who settled in Paris and works with the Marilyn agency) and Diana Kovalchuk (who works with Elite New York), and it took them years of hard work to establish themselves at the top, he said.
“And that’s what local girls have to learn about this business: That apart from physical attractiveness, dedication and patience are also essential.”
Confident that Kyiv fashion models can reach international catwalks, Him recently initiated a fashion show in Kyiv, inviting French fashion designer Christophe Sauvat and make-up artist Stefan Burg of Berlin – both close friends of his – to help.
“I like the mixture of different cultures,” he said with respect to working with an international team. “In a way, fashion is like a cultural exchange. Personal invitation is the way I see it. I’d like to have fashion shows like private parties or club events in Kyiv, where professionals and artistic circles attend.”
Last week, Karavan hosted Sauvat and his new summer collection, presented under the Antik Batik label. The restaurant’s Asian-style interior and comfortable seating, cushions, carpets and private atmosphere provided the ideal atmosphere for Sauvat’s eclectic and colorful collection, featuring mostly light, transparent fabrics.
Our lively conversation came to a close over a strong, tasty shot of espresso (Hr 6).
“I’d like to see more parties like [Sauvat’s] not only in Kyiv, but in other Ukrainian cities as well. We’re planning to have another fashion show with Sauvat in August,” Him said, adding that both Sauvat and Burg would “like to return to Kyiv.”
Him said that after expending much effort to persuade the East Berlin-based Burg to come to Kyiv, he was gratified to find the make-up artist enthusiastic about the city’s beauty. “So all we need to do is destroy old stereotypes,” Him concluded.
“I think it’s possible to organize a venue [party] in Paris or New York for a Ukrainian fashion designer,” Him said. “But fashion shows in New York are very expensive. To organize such a party could cost from $25,000 to $50,000, not including the services of make-up artists and hair-stylists. So to do these parties in Kyiv, by personal invitation only, is a good way to handle it.”
Karavan
10 Klovsky Uzviz, 290 9577.
Open daily from 12 noon till midnight.
