You're reading: Tarakaniv Fortress meant to defend Russian Empire

TARAKANIV, Ukraine – The ruins of the diamond-shaped Tarakaniv Fortress, tucked away into the hill and surrounded by trees, is hard to spot from far off. But if you are driving between Kyiv and Lviv, you may want to take a few minutes or hours to stop by and have a look.

The abandoned fortress was built in the 19th century to defend the Russian Empire’s Western flank from a possible German or Austro-Hungarian attack.

Now it lies just one kilometer from the Kyiv-Chop highway in Rivne Oblast. And while it has not been kept up, there is plenty to see for anyone interested in history, architecture and a bit of adventure.

The now-abandoned fortress was reportedly built for as much as tens of millions of rubles at the end of the 19th century.

Covering an area of more than five hectares, the fort accommodated nearly 600 soldiers, had its own heating system, sauna, bakery, laundry, electric power station, a 28-bed hospital and even a church.

Tarakaniv Fortress is worth a day-long trip for those who want to journey into the czarist Russian Empire past. (Courtesy of www.polissya.eu)

Despite the large cost, the Tarakaniv Fortress was never used for defense purposes. In 1900, Russian army commanders came to the conclusion that the southern-western border was relatively safe and removed most of the army personnel, turning the building first into a military warehouse and then into a prison.

Even though the complex is nowadays on the books of the Defense Ministry, there’s not a lot that gives it away, apart from a warning sign. Perhaps the only exception is the local legend about a guard, paid by the ministry to oversee the place, who miraculously shows up throughout the fortress, using secret passageways, entrances and exits to surprise visitors and tell them to clear out.

True or not (probably not), this legend makes entering the fortress feel a little uneasy, especially given that to get inside you have to pass through a tunnel around 30 meters long and five meters wide that goes underneath the two rows of massive defense walls.

But very soon you’ll forget about it, because as you come out of the tunnel you become completely overwhelmed by the incredible ambience of the place. Inside the walls, the first sight is an incredible two-storey building, which, back in its heyday, housed the living area and the military headquarters.

With its myriads of twisting underground corridors and thick concrete walls, the building is said to go five floors underground. It has huge arch-shaped window openings and straight, seemingly endless passageways.

Unfortunately all the surface constructions made of bricks were considerably damaged during military clashes in the 1920s and by the more recent decision of the Soviet military commanders to turn the fortress into a training ground where the soldiers polished their indoor shooting skills – hence the numerous bullet and shell marks on the walls.

This magnificent place looks like a historical movie setting and, if properly rebuilt, would make one of the nicest hotels of Eastern Europe.

But it would cost a king’s ransom, as you can’t miss the widening cracks in the wall, as moisture and ground water are slowly destroying the place. The fort’s drainage system, considered to be state of the art when it was built, has long gone out of service.

As a result, walking around requires caution, as there is a danger of falling bricks and in some rooms you can see that entire blocks have fallen off the ceiling.

In contrast, the underground spaces are still incredibly well preserved and in some areas you can even see white paint on the walls.

It’s worth remembering, however, that the place, and especially its underground areas, was engineered in the way that the enemy soldiers could get trapped in its corridors, passageways and dead ends. So there is a danger of getting lost, or alternately, meeting the mysterious guard.

Yet reasons why Tarakaniv Fortress, which inherited the name from the nearby village Tarakaniv, is a perfect destination for a weekend getaway completely outweigh all the setbacks. It’s an amazing journey into the past, a destination well off the usual Kyiv-Lviv-Crimea tourist routine, guaranteeing fresh impressions and discoveries.

Just make sure to keep looking up for the falling bricks and have plenty of spare batteries for your flashlight.

Getting There

Take the Kyiv-Chop highway to the village Tarakaniv, near Dubno – some 400 kilometers from Kyiv. Tarakaniv Fort is located at the exit to Tarakaniv on the way to Lviv, approximately a 15-minute walk up the hill to the left from the highway.

Alternately, train 111 (Kharkiv – Lviv) leaves Kyiv at 4:22 a.m. and arrives in Dubno at 12:02 p.m. Tickets cost Hr 462 in the first class sleeping car or Hr 122 for a place in a four-bed sleeping car.

Staying There

Zodiak Motel in Tarakaniv may be the best option for those travelling by car. One of the advantages is the in-house sauna – a great way to relax after a day-long adventure in the forest and fortress. Double rooms starting at Hr 150. Tel. 036-565-1331.

Alternately, stay in nearby Dubno and visit its rather touristy, yet important attraction – Dubno Castle. A taxi ride from Dubno to the Tarakaniv Fortress is around Hr 40.

Antique House at 17 Zamkova St. is a comfortable small hotel overlooking the castle. Double rooms start at Hr 350, tel. 050-579-5905.

Dubno Hotel, a renovated two-star hotel, double rooms start at Hr 258, 9 D. Halytskoho St., tel. 036-564- 1086.


Kyiv Post staff writer Vlad Lavrov can be reached at [email protected]