You're reading: World Traveler: Shades of Soviet times in sunny Kyrgyzstan

BISHKEK, Kyrgyzstan – In Soviet times, it was promoted as “Sunny Kyrgyzstan.” Many citizens traveled to Lake Issyk Kul or Tian Shan Mountains. It was a cheap and safe way to spend holidays.

But now the Central Asian country is not so popular among Ukrainian tourists, and tickets to Bishkek are as expensive as those to New York.  But if you like to discover out-of-the-way places, then welcome to Kyrgyzstan!

It’s a place with a Soviet soul and a smiling, friendly Asian face, where the Russian language is still fondly spoken, and where an unhurried Islamic culture flows from climate and tradition, even as modern conveniences take hold.

My plane landed in Kyrgyzstan’s Manas airport, where there is a transit center of U.S. armed forces and where the roar of huge transport planes annoys nearby villagers.

Arriving in Bishkek (it takes about 10 minutes and $4 to get from the airport), I was astonished with its geographical position. It is lying in the valley surrounded by ancient rocky mountains.

While going along the straight wide streets, I saw the old buildings with funny old-time warnings such as: “Keep matches away from children” or “Don’t forget to switch off home appliances.”

The sun is almost at its zenith, so it’s rather hot. But on every corner, citizens are sipping a traditional kyrgyz drink called shoro. Its recipe is a secret, but the barley-water brew costs 20 cents for 0.2 liters. Many citizens are wearing the national thick felt hat – Al Kolpak.

The other outstanding feature is gold mining, with unique gold jewelry found at the airport duty-free store.

But modern-life has indeed intruded and nobody has to worry about Internet access: free Wi-Fi spots are dotted all around the center of Bishkek, courtesy of  Kyrgyztelecom company. Almost all cafes and shopping malls provide wireless communication.

And free maps at art shops will help tourists find their way around.

What to see?

Along the longest street, Chui Boulevard, monumental architecture shows the power of the republic. Here are the House of Parliament, the huge National Philharmonic House, the National Opera, the  Historical Museum and the other interesting places. Cozy parks with chenar trees are the best places to relax and play a favored game of table tennis.

Sunny weather helps for a nice tan, even if you don’t have time to visit a famous recreation place such as the giant Lake Issyk Kul, which means “warm water” because it never freezes over.

A marshrutka shuttle bus from the central Bishkek station can, however, take you there in five hours for $9. Booking hotels in advance helps save money and taxis can even be ordered from the airport to the resort.

Another attraction is the Ysyk-Ata resort, 80 kilometers from Bishkek, where there’s well-known hot springs resort in the country.

Savage mountain landscapes are available for the rugged traveler. Peak Jengish Chokusu (Pobeda Peak or Victory Peak) is the highest point of the country at some 7,439 meters. There in the mountains you see yurts where shepherds live. Travel by car is rather cheap here.

What to eat? 

For national cuisine (caution: very spicy!), head over to the city center for meat dishes and don’t forget about coffee drinks for $2. We rested at a city cafe and ordered manty – mutton loaves and also samosa, a pastry with various fillings (especially peas, onions or cheese), the favorite national dish.

Fresh fruit, especially apricots and cherries, are in ample and cheap supply. Kyrgyzstan is a paradise for beer lovers, with the national beer sold in every market.

What to buy? 

Souvenirs are also cheap. You can choose from a range of tea bowls with national ornaments ($5) or a felt shawl or warm slippers. A variety of carpets with traditional symbols catch eye, and porcelain figures with petroglyphs from the mountains are very interesting to look at. Magnets cost about $1-1.5. Also buy dried apricots, raisins, cashews, almonds and spices – all these  can be found at the markets.

Flight Kyiv-Bishkek return ticket – $550 (Ukrainian International Airlines).
Average meal for two people –
$8.
Public transport –
20 cents
Accommodation –
Double suite from $120

Kyiv Post staff writer Olena Goncharova can be reached at [email protected]