You're reading: Food Critic: Lviv-style desserts in Kyiv

As Kyiv steps into a deep autumn melancholy, it’s the right time to find a good culinary cure for rainy and cold days. When it comes to delicacies, Lviv-style eateries – which offer traditional Galician desserts and modern recipes – are fortunately available in Kyiv as well.

The staff
in a two-story Galytskyi Strudel café at 18 Saksahanskoho Street in downtown Kyiv
revives an old-style Lviv atmosphere with traditional hospitality. The interior
is not overloaded and is charming enough for meeting with friends or just reading
one of the Ukrainian books shelved on the first floor.

Crisp savory
strudels with an array of fillings go for Hr 22. Choose among cabbage, salmon,
spinach or mushroom-filled strudels for a light snack. Poppy-filled strudel
will appeal to the sweet tooth. All go well with a fruity drink or milk shake. Another
dish worth trying is Galytskyi syrnyk (Hr 18), a soft cheesecake with sour
cream, a nice companion to an espresso or cappuccino. The menu also includes
soups, salads and even ice cream.

For those
in a hurry, it’s worth it to drop in on Lvivsky Plyatsky (Lviv pastry shop) at
5 Spaska St. in the city’s Podil district. It has already attracted plenty of
fans and is geared for takeout – with only 11 tables. The place is nicely styled
with rolling pins adorning the walls and Lviv souvenirs at the counter. Jars of
jam piled on the shelves add to the homey atmosphere. However, it’s almost
impossible to relax amid the din. An open kitchen gives a chance to view the cooking
process through a window.

In the meantime,
savory strudel with chicken and spinach (Hr 27) is not so filling, so it’s
better to also order Lvivskyi syrnyk, for the same price. Vanilla, chocolate or
berry sauces make it even tastier. Cookies, magnets and books from Ukraine’s “western
capital” can be found. 

Zolotyi
Dukat café at 16 Institutska Street, which claims to offer one of the best
coffee experiences in Kyiv, also offers outstanding desserts. Their apple
strudel with cinnamon (Hr 34) is probably the best thing to start with. A wide
range of coffee drinks, including amaretto, mochaccino, hot chocolate or latte
– all in the neighborhood of Hr 30 – are good accompaniments to the treats.

The Lviv
Chocolate Factory, with three locations in central Kyiv, shares a culture of
chocolate making with Kyivans. Its chocolate cake is a good option for cold
days (Hr 19), perhaps along with fruit salad topped with Lviv chocolate (Hr 30)
or a nut cocktail (Hr 30). 

Kyiv Post staff writer Olena Goncharova can be reached at [email protected].