There are few things more American than the diner. Steel-legged tables and checkered floors, soda fountains and bottomless coffee, jukeboxes blaring oldies while a wait staff in uniform serves up greasy spoon burgers and fries – all integral parts of the overall experience.
Zheltok, yolk in English, a new Kyiv café styled after the American diner, succeeds in having some of these. The uniforms are there – women in pastel yellow and white, men in light blue – as is much of the necessary aesthetic: the metal-legged stools, the bulbous coffee pots, Heinz Ketchup bottles atop each table and Elvis Presley and other oldies roaring from the speakers. There is even a neon “Yolk Diner” sign hanging from the exposed brick wall and a gumball machine for added effect.
When it comes to the food, Zheltok also delivers – to an extent. A variety of omelets (Hr 20 and up) are on offer for breakfast, as is bottomless coffee – though refills are at the mercy of a wait staff more accustomed to Ukrainian practices than American. Pancakes (Hr 25 and up) are also on the menu, and can be served with real maple syrup (Hr 15).
For lunch and dinner there is an array of burgers to be had, from the beef BBQ burger (Hr 55) to the Miami burger with prawns and pineapple (Hr 65). The best way to get a taste of what’s available is to order the mini-burger set menu (Hr 80) comprised of a mini-beef burger, mini-fish burger and mini-turkey burger (each Hr 35 separately). Zheltok also has a decent variety of salads, including a traditional and refreshing big green salad (Hr 45).
After filling up on burgers, wash them down with homemade Zheltok sodas (Hr 10 per glass, Hr 35 for a pitcher). Flavors include cola, orangeade, lemonade, and tonic. The homemade smoothies and milkshakes (Hr 35-45) aren’t half bad, though not as thick as American-styled shakes should be. It’s not so much diner behavior, but if you’re feeling sophisticated, sip a glass of Californian red or white wine (Hr 40-50).
With room left still, try the Louisiana cheesecake (Hr 45), classic crème brulee (Hr 45) or the apple pie with vanilla ice cream (Hr 35). The apple pie is a quintessential American treat, and though it won’t likely taste like an Oregon mother’s homemade recipe, it will remind those who’ve been across the pond of what they’re missing.
While Zheltok’s price is good for its quality and quantity of food, it still leaves some of the American diner experience to be desired. The serving of fries that comes with each meal, instead of a heaping pile, is merely a shot glass of five. And the kitchen rarely seems to get food orders out together, leaving one person either watching the other eat or with a cold burger.
Another letdown rests with the wait staff. In America, it might come with a bit of sass, but a waiter or waitress will always welcome you with a “good day,” a smile and his or her name. Don’t expect that at Zheltok.
Kyiv Post editor Christopher J. Miller can be reached at [email protected], and on Twitter at @ChristopherJM.
