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Cafe on Basseyna; China White

14 May 2008, 22:14 | Alexandra Matoshko, Kyiv Post Guide Editor
Cafe on Basseyna; China White
KP Media, photo by Serhiy Zavalnyuk
Urban landscapes and discreete elegance
prevail at Kafe na Basseynoy.
Have cheap and tasty meals at Kafe na Basseynoy; try Chinese delicacies at China White

is easy to guess. To be more precise, it’s located in the basement right next to Lush store. As you walk by, look out for a round sign on the wall. Inside it’s well lit and elegant with a neutral design and Italian furniture.

The oblong cellar is divided into several sections resembling wagons. The main dining hall looks rather big due to photo wallpaper depicting panoramic views of Kyiv, accompanied by mirrors. A cloakroom by the entrance is unusual for such a casual cafe, and therefore is a nice surprise.

Dishes are unusually low-priced for a centrally located place, but it doesn’t affect their quality in any negative way – all the food is simple, carefully prepared, and just tasty. Greek salad will cost you Hr 28, Vinegret (common Ukrainian salad of boiled vegetables) – Hr 14. The house specialty, “Na Basseynoy” salad (Hr 50), is made with shrimp, salmon, crayfish necks and iceberg lettuce.

Among other dishes worth trying are green pea cream soup with red caviar (Hr 20), Dorado grilled whole and served with steamed vegetables (Hr 100), crepes with meat and mushrooms (Hr 39), or apples, sprinkled with almond chips.

Another nice dessert is poppy seeds cake (Hr 30). A breakfast menu is available, featuring homemade kefir, semolina or fried eggs.

Note that some dishes might not be available in the evening, as all the products are purchased in a limited amount for one day’s usage, which means you can be sure of the food’s quality and freshness.

Kafe Na Basseynoy (15 Basseyna, 287-4434). Open 8 a.m. until the last customer

English menu: Yes

English-speaking staff: Yes

Average meal: Hr 80

 

China White

Not long after the opening of Indian restaurant Nirvana, the Kozyrna Karta chain produced another ethnically-themed offspring – China White. It’s no secret that some of the chain’s ethnic restaurants aren’t especially authentic in terms of cuisine, as the main effort is placed in the interior, often overloaded with various colorful elements.

Nirvana was among the latter kind – connoisseurs of Indian cuisine would have been quite bemused by the food served at the eatery, which only distantly reminds of what it should be. The place clearly caters to glamorous youth, who will be easily tempted by its name, and the fact that everything Indian is in fashion.

As it turned out, China White is of a different sort. In fact, it stands somewhere in the middle, offering a blend of Asian and European cuisines and a classy atmosphere.

The restaurant’s interior resembles a labyrinth with seven different dining halls, whose names, “Fire,” “Calligraphic,” “Flowers,” “Rice,” “Emperor’s” and “Velvet,” plainly indicate each of their design theme. With lots of drapery and screens, creating numerous cozy corners for guests willing to dine hidden from eyes, the place lacks ubiquitous ethnic elements. As a result, the restaurant looks overly chic and high-class.

The menu is also unexpectedly short, both for a Kozyrna Karta restaurant and Chinese eatery in general. European, Japanese and Chinese dishes are mixed on the menu, though in each case it’s clearly indicated which cuisine it is.

The European section features some Asian influences, such as Greek salad (Hr 86) made with feta instead of tofu; Caesar salad (Hr 86) with chicken, marinated Chinese-style; or chicken wings in honey-and-soy glazing (Hr 78). The choice of Japanese dishes is modest, offering a regular set of sushi, sashimi, seaweed salads and several Miso soups – classical, salmon and seafood.

The Chinese selection is understandably widest, featuring various signature dishes such as spiced pork ears with vegetables (Hr 67), black mushrooms fried with young bamboo spouts (Hr 78), Chinese dumplings with meat (Hr 67), Huk-Duk soup with dumplings and shitake (Hr 52), spicy Kung Pao chicken (Hr 112), and fried pork and veal served in a hot pan.

Of course, the main highlight of any Chinese restaurant is always Peking Duck, which at China White will cost you Hr 688 – the portion should be enough for several people. It will be cut right at the table and served with rice pancakes, leek, fresh cucumbers and two sauces.

In order to prepare Peking Duck the proper Chinese way, the restaurant was equipped with a special stove. In it the ducks are hung up, and fried spinning around the heat. Only this way of frying allows the duck to obtain the famous thin crunchy crust.  

The most recommended dessert is Tenderness and Mystery of China (Hr 62) – fried milk pudding seasoned with condensed milk. It’s best to order it with milky green tea.

China White (24 Lesia Ukrayinky Blvd., 594-2175). Open noon until midnight

English menu: Yes

English-speaking staff: Yes

Average meal: Hr 250

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