Named after a popular vodka-based liqueur, Spotykach is the first Ukrainian restaurant to open in the neighborhood and will certainly not be overlooked by passers-by, tourists and employees of the interior and foreign ministries located nearby at  St. Michael’s Square.

Instead of opening yet another traditional Ukrainian eatery, the Kozyrnaya Karta chain decided that Spotykach’s theme will be the Soviet Union of the 1960s, when Ukrainian Nikita Khrushchev came to power in the Kremlin. After decades of bloody rule under Stalin, Krushchev’s rule was known as “the thaw” that introduced a relatively happy period in Soviet history.

The homage to Khrushchev is apparent even before you enter the restaurant: the corn-shaped door handles serve as reminder of Khrushchev’s campaign to massively sow corn instead of wheat as one of his agricultural reforms. At the door, you will be greeted by a hostess with a shot of the sweet Spotykach and a salo canape before the pleasant cloakroom attendant takes your outerwear. Now it’s time to imagine that you’ve stepped back in time.

The interior is full of numerous trinkets that reflect the spirit of the era, things that remind most Kyivans of their grandma’s flat: china statues, vases, curtains, lace tablecloths, carpets on the wall, acoustic guitars, photographs of movie stars and old books. Each of the restaurant’s three halls has its own theme: Crystal hall is adorned with sets of crystal glasses you would expect to find proudly displayed by your grandparents on their bookcase shelves; Living Room has walls adorned with tapestry, photographs and reproductions, while Cabinet is made up of several compartments with office tables and sofas from the 1960s.

The medium-priced menu is not exactly Ukrainian – it’s comprised of Soviet cuisine hits that do include some Ukrainian standards like borshch (Hr 35) served in an enamel pan with pampushki (small garlic rolls). Additionally you can order homemade pastries with green pea, meat or egg and rice fillings (Hr 5 for one). One of the most popular dishes at Spotykach is the “Mimoza” salad – a popular party dish with layers of boiled potatoes, carrot, cheese, canned sardines and mayonnaise. The only difference from the Soviet classic is that at Spotykach they’ve substituted the sardines with tuna (Hr 39). Another nostalgic meal is homemade blood sausage (Hr 57) recommended to order with home-brewed horseradish vodka. Traditional pelmeni meat dumplings (Hr 69), varenyky (Hr 45-64), vinaigrette salad of boiled vegetables, pickled cabbage and kidney beans for Hr 29 are also on the menu. Main courses include flounder with apple puree (Hr 69); halibut boiled in milk (Hr 72); pike on a pillow of spinach (Hr 75); fried veal liver (Hr 73). Chicken Kyiv (Hr 57) is prepared according to the classical recipe, but the chefs at Spotykach added a twist by mixing cheese to the liquid butter filling. After the meal, enjoy a traditional dessert: Medovyk (honey cake) for Hr 27, factory-made Kyivskiy cake (Hr 21), syrnyky (cottage cheese thick pancakes) for Hr 29; pancakes with poppy seeds (Hr 29) or cottage cheese and raisins. Tea is served at Spotykach in glasses with metal glass-holders – the kind still used to serve tea on the trains today – with crackers and jam.

To pass the time, ask your waiter for any of the board games popular in the former Soviet Union – chess, checkers, dominoes and lotto. Upon departure, guests are offered what perhaps was once the most popular Soviet snack – roasted sunflower seeds wrapped in newspaper that tells the restaurant’s story – just like the good old days.

Spotykach (16 Volodymyrska, 586-4095). Open 11 a.m. till midnight

English menu: Yes

English-speaking staff: Yes

Average meal: Hr 200