Introduction: If you visit the eastern Ukrainian city of Kharkiv for the first time, the first impression you will get is that of severe Soviet buildings, wide gray avenues and a gigantic statue of Vladmir Lenin in the central square.
But if you get to know Kharkiv, a city of roughly 1.5 million people located 480 kilometers from the capital, you will notice that it has a young soul and an open mind.
Aside from its Soviet heritage, Kharkiv has the most educational institutions in Ukraine.
The city is inhabited with at least 33,000 students, one third of which are foreigners from post-Soviet countries, Asia and Middle East. Numerous universities, institutes and colleges were opened in Kharkiv during Soviet times to support the city’s emerging hi-tech industry.
It was Kharkiv where the atom was split for the first time in Europe, giving a start to the nuclear industry in the Soviet Union. The city was also famous as a center of military industry in the country. After Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, the city’s industry rapidly declined. But still Kharkiv is known on the international market for its tanks, airplanes and aviation turbines.
Apart from its well-educated young citizens, Kharkiv is a relatively young city itself. It is 350 years old, which is not so much for a Ukrainian city in general, especially in comparison with 1,530-year-old Kyiv.
Modern Kharkiv is a home to some 50 different cultural minorities, creating an atmosphere of tolerance and hospitality. The city is mostly Russian-speaking, but for many people Russian and Ukrainian are both native tongues.
Must see: The must-see place in Kharkiv is 750-meter long Svobody (Freedom) Square, the biggest square in Ukraine and one of the biggest in Europe. You won’t miss it for the simple reason that the fan zone is also situated there. Pay attention to the mighty Derzhprom, or State Industry building, rising up to 13 floors. Built in the 1920s, it was the first skyscraper in the USSR.
A renowned example of Constructivism, it was synonymous with Soviet industry as it housed more than 30 industrial companies and unions. Take a photo of yourself in front of Lenin’s statue in the center of the square and take another picture near the massive monument to Ukrainian bard, Taras Shevchenko, situated about 100 meters or so from Lenin’s statue.
Take a stroll along Sumska and Pushkinska downtown streets to enjoy buildings in modern style and feel the spirit of the city. Have a rest on the Lopan River embankment and mind that Pokrovsky Monastery, a 17th century example of Ukrainian baroque style, and Blahovishchensky (Annunciation) Cathedral, built in 1901 in the New Byzantine style, look especially marvelous with backlighting at night.
Stadium: With a capacity of 38,633 people, Kharkiv’s Metalist Stadium is relatively small. After the recent reconstruction, which lasted two years and ended in 2009, it became known under the nickname “spider.” The stadium owes this name to 24 towers resembling the tentacles of an arthropod built to support the roof. The arena will host three Euro 2012 matches between teams from the Netherlands, Germany and Portugal starting from June 9.
Take home: A box of delicious butter biscuits called Kharkiv Souvenir produced by a local factory.
Say: Kharkiv is a first capital of Ukraine! Kharkivans are proud of the fact that their city was the first capital of Soviet Ukraine, for 15 years, from 1919 until 1934.
Don’t say: We feel like traveling 50 years back in time machine straight in the Soviet era. Kharkivans don’t like when their city is judged by the city’s unglamorous and dull Soviet interface only.
Quote: “Kharkiv is like a gold mine,” says Kharkiv philologist Ihor Orzhytsky. “It’s a city with a great combination of Soviet constructivism and 19th century urban architecture. It needs only a bit of fresh make-up [to shine again].”
Kyiv Post staff writer Oksana Faryna can be reached at [email protected].
