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Kobalt will satisfy both your hunger and your craving for arts with its combination of a restaurant, club and art gallery. Serhiy Zavalnyuk While the Kyiv Post food section no longer exists (along with most of the entertainment and culture Guide), a temporary casualty of the economy, it’s certainly no reason to stop reporting the latest news from the city’s ever-growing restaurant scene.

So here’s some of the new dining places in the capital worthy of your attention:

Pleasantly Bohemian

Kobalt restaurant is located right next to the Presidential Administration, but unlike most eateries in the area, its concept is broader than pricey food and a chic interior. Opened in place of literature cafe Eney, Kobalt preserved its Bohemian atmosphere, but focuses on fine arts rather than literature. Its owners define it as an art club, art gallery and art restaurant all-in-one, while some of the media even dub it as a museum. Indeed, all the definitions seem quite fitting. While Kobalt is most definitely a dining place, various paintings, sculptures and other art objects craftily integrated into its laconically elegant interior make it a gallery. Various events regularly held there such as musical concerts and theater plays as well as children’s programs on weekends make up the club bit. Speaking of the gallery, the exposition is supposed to be changed every two weeks. But there are also permanent elements forming the design of the place – the project-installation of metal and wood by Andriy Severinko. Like at any art gallery, you can ask for a tour of Kobalt and even negotiate the purchase of any exhibits. The artful approach is applied in the kitchen as well, as chef Roman Zashchytynskiy likes to mix and experiment with European classics. On the menu you may find dishes such as cheese soup with snails (Hr 80), seafood cocktail-soup (Hr 100), salad with fried scallops and mozzarella (Hr 112), lamb cooked in Provencal herbs (Hr 170) and the signature dessert “Kobalt”– blue parfait with Philadelphia cheese and raspberry marmalade (Hr 100).


Austrian flavor

It turns out Austrian cuisine wasn’t represented in Kyiv until recently, except in the private homes of Austrians residing in the capital. The unfortunate culinary gap was filled by Kaiserhof – a cozy cellar designed in the style of a Viennese cafe with photographs of Emperor Franz Joseph and views of Vienna. The waitresses, wearing traditional dresses with impressive decollete, do add just enough national color. To get a good idea of what Austrian cuisine is about, try its main hit, Tafelspitz (Hr 290), prepared according to all the rules by chef Serhiy Ustymenko, who had his practice at the famous Austrian restaurant Plachutta prior to starting at Kaiserhof. Tafelspitz is not just a dish – it’s a whole dinner, and though it’s considered a long-play meal for one, it would be more sensible to order it for two to ensure you can get up from the table afterwards. The order includes a number of dishes. First comes the pot of steaming concentrated broth with a generous piece of boiled veal and a brain bone floating inside. To get started on your Tafelspitz, you will need to extract the brain from the broth, place it on toast and have it with a shot of schnapps (Hr 75 for 50 grams). Then the bullion is to be poured into a plate with noodles. After the soup, it’s time to have the veal, served with two sauces – horse radish with apples and cream-mustard, as well as two types of garnish – “Rosti” potatoes (boiled, ground and fried) and spinach. Other dishes include homemade salted salmon with potato pancakes (Hr 105), duck fillet terrine with apple sauce (Hr 70); Viennese schnitzel (Hr 70); veal liver in onion glazing with baked apple and cranberry sauce (Hr 80). Popular desserts, such as Zaher cake (Hr 70), apple strudel (Hr 55) and “Kaiserschmarren” (Hr 45) – sponge cake fried like an omelet – shouldn’t be missed.


Whiskey mania

Alcohol-oriented eateries in Kyiv are becoming more specialized. A number of wine restaurants are already offering menus designed to go with certain wines. Now there is also a place for whisky lovers called Single. The main pride of the restaurant is the collection of Glenmorangie single-malt whiskeys. The rest of the extensive whiskey selection includes the full lines of the Macallan and Highland Park, as well as about 50 other kinds, with prices starting from Hr 25 per 50 grams. As for the menu, you’ll be recommended dishes like catfish fillet with cream-mushroom sauce (Hr 187); duck legs in ginger sauce (Hr 197) and Haggis liver sausages with sour sweet cabbage (Hr 110). The interior is pleasant to the eye, without any excessive luxury. Dark wood, lamp shades shaped as crystal glasses and curtains of beads add a slightly more playful touch. VIP guests who prefer to enjoy their whiskey and dinner in strict privacy will be offered one of several separate rooms the doors to which are skillfully concealed in the walls.


Kobalt (2 Bankova, 254-0717). Open 11 a.m. till 11 p.m.

Kaiserhof (5/14 Rohnedynska, 289-1999). Open noon till midnight

Single (6 Muzeyniy Lane, 254-0059). 11 a.m. till the last customer