A few years ago, my parents said the words that every expat kid knows and dreads: “We’ve decided where we’re moving at the end of the year!” When I found out that my parents’ top choice was Kyiv, Ukraine, I wasn’t exactly thrilled. How was I supposed to move from Moscow—a city that is tremendous, grand and epic in scale--to Kyiv? Kyiv is so…small.
It didn’t take me long to realize that my initial dread could not have been more pointless. If I could go back in time, I would tell the 14-year-old me that, in this case, smaller is better. Here’s why:
No one can deny that the Dnipro River is one of the most impressive on earth, reducing most others to pathetic trickles by comparison. Of the many bodies of water I have encountered during my travels, it is the only river that I have ever heard my dad, a proud New Yorker, compare to the Hudson.
The Moscow River, on the other hand, doesn’t quite live up to the “Hudson Standard.” It has its moments, but lacks the Dnipro’s scale and majesty. For most of the year, it is a flat greenish-brown compared to the Dnipro’s radiant sparkle. On any reasonably warm day, you are bound to see people wading in the Dnipro.
People also swim in the Moscow River, of course, even though it’s probably even more polluted than the Dnipro (I think I saw a body floating once, but I can’t be sure).
The beaches in Moscow are often less than charming. That isn’t to say that Kyiv doesn’t have its fair share of overcrowded strips of sand, because Lord knows it does, but it has plenty of spots by the river that are truly breathtaking. I wasn’t able to find many such spots in Moscow. Point for Kyiv.
Teenagers love to shop, and teenaged expats are no different. While Moscow definitely has Kyiv beat in the diversity and range of stores available, it’s difficult to buy anything unless you are willing to fork up 10 times more than you would pay in any other country.
Okay, that’s an exaggeration, but Moscow’s rank as one of the five most expensive cities in the world is not just an honorary title. Food, clothing, sports equipment — everything is more expensive than it should be.
View of the Dnipro River as seen from the South Bridge in Kyiv. (Vitaliy Raskalov)
The prices in Kyiv are far more reasonable. There is no reason to be concerned about shopping; Kyiv has plenty of stores from Europe and beyond, and I doubt anyone feels deprived of fashion when they see some of the high heels that strut down Kreshchatyk Street every day.
Point for Kyiv.
On the topic of walking, we must compare Moscow’s Old Arbat to Kyiv’s Kreshchatyk.
They may not be the perfect parallels to draw between the two cities, but both streets are alike in their friendliness towards pedestrians.
One of the things I like most about living in Kyiv is when Kreshchatyk is closed to traffic on weekends in the summer, and everyone comes out to walk on what is normally a very busy stretch of road.
Without fail, street performers and food vendors come out to try to make a profit off of the sudden surge in pedestrian life, and the atmosphere is relaxed and pleasant…but this only happens once a week.
Because Old Arbat is always a pedestrian street, it usually has the “Sunday Relaxed” atmosphere that I love so much. Its smaller scale is charming and more personal, and while there are a few large American establishments—namely Starbucks and Hard Rock Cafe—that take some of the appeal away, it isn’t overwhelming with advertisements like Kreshchatyk can be.
I am also personally not a fan of large, intimidating Soviet architecture, so I generally don’t find Kreshchatyk as aesthetically pleasing as Old Arbat. Though they’re both great, I think the Arbat is nicer. Point for Moscow.
The Moscow and Kyiv metros were built by the same people, both around the same time, so at first it is difficult to find differences between the two. Yes, the one in Moscow is bigger, but it is a far bigger city so that seems fitting.
It’s also true that in Moscow the stations tend to be more ornate than those in Kyiv, with mosaics depicting glorious Soviet workers adorning the walls of cavernous platforms.
They share the same impossibly long escalator rides underground, the same wonderfully short three-minute wait (get your act together, Chicago!), and the same rickety trains.
Overall, the similarities are more numerous than the differences, but ultimately riding the Kyiv metro is a more enjoyable experience. Then again, perhaps enjoyable is not the correct word to use.
Kyiv is a much smaller city–a trait that I am increasingly realizing is an advantage–so fewer people commute every day, and the metros are relatively less congested.
Fortunately for me, the agony of being underground in a crowd of several hundred people, all of whom are trying to get a spot a single escalator, is more characteristic of Moscow.
Kyiv’s metro is anything but pleasant, but the sheer chaos that takes place in Moscow twice a day makes the Ukrainian rush hour seem like a walk in the park. Point Kyiv.
The final call is Kyiv 3, Moscow 1.
While I will always have a soft spot in my heart for Moscow, I can’t deny the fact that my quality of life is better here.
Caitlin Cleary is an American high school student living in Kyiv this summer.
