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An ultimate lounge: Shanti serves a large variety of teas following elaborite Chinese tea tradition. Oleksiy Boyko Tea lovers can find invigorating brews at one of Kyiv’s tea rooms

g behind only water. My first personal exposure to tea was probably reading the chapter on the mad tea party in Alice and Wonderland, where it was “always tea time.” Since then, I have become a rabid tea drinker, probably garnering myself many teeth bleaching bills in the future.

Every time I come back to this part of the world, my tea consumption skyrockets. Ukrainians love their tea but it seems like many have long contented themselves with store-bought tea. But there are better things in this world than Lipton and Ahmed, I discovered as I surveyed Kyiv’s tearooms.


Monomakh (21A Chervonoarmiyska)

Pictures of tea-drinking celebrities adorn the lime green walls of hip Monomakh. The cafe’s tea, steeped and served in a clear glass mug, feels similarly modern. The menu features six types of classical green teas at Hr 7 each, including the Chinese “green wave.” It also has seven types of “classical black teas,” including an enjoyable Assam-Darjeeling blend, also at Hr 7. Pricier options include the Milky Oolong tea (Hr 15) or the cutely named, clove-infused Chinese Buttons (Hr 12).

Ailing at the time, I tried the hot Chai Tartuffe (Hr 13), hoping that its infusion of lemon juice, fruit syrup, and cloves would speed my recovery. The beverage was delicious, mildly sweet, and brimming with vitamin C. My companion tried the “Summer Sparkles” (Hr 8), a Ceylon black blended with Chinese green tea and fruit flavors. Though it was not as fruity as she would like, she described it as pleasant and energizing.

A wide array of pies—sweet cheese, cherry, mushroom, fish, cabbage, chicken, spinach and even poppy—round out the menu. The desserts, which all appear to be freshly made, are a delight. With its layers of cake, cream and honey, the honey tower (Hr 6.50) is a unique treat.—Sonia Smith


El Mate (24A Prospekt Heroyiv Stalinhradu, 204-8832)

The entrance to El Mate is tucked away into the left side of the building; one should look not in the inner courtyard beside the Guinness Pub. With only three wooden tables, the cafe is tiny. Sepia-toned photos of Ernest Hemingway, Che Guevara, Jorge Borges, and Gabriel Garcia Marquez line the walls, interspersed with paintings of flamenco dancers.

While this small space had the potential to feel homey, it is cluttered by a mishmash of South and North American Indian knicknacks—rainsticks, dream catchers, mate pots, and earrings, all of them for sale. Instead of amassing all this kitsch, the owner would have been better served by a minimalist approach.

That aside, it’s certainly the only place in Kyiv that one can get mate served 34 different ways—with kinds of herbs, fruit flavors, or milk. Coffee and blini are also available, as well as a bacon-packed “Western” omelet (Hr 30). Dried kiwi and apples (Hr 5 for 100 grams) make for a healthy snack.—Sonia Smith

Chaikof (1, Prospect Peremohy, 238-0041). chaikof.com.ua

Upon taking my first steps inside Chaikof, I realized this is not a place one comes to to relax. It is not for tea lovers, who like to taste their tea in intimate surroundings, either.

Overcrowded at the end of the business day, there were only a few tables inside where I could take a seat, while the outdoor terrace near the intersection of Prospect Peremohy and Vorovskoho Street was full of people. Trying to hide from the smoggy and noisy city, I chose the indoor location. Unfortunately, the indoor area was filled with many smoking patrons and thumping music.

The only hope for lifting my spirits was the food which I ordered after a quick look at the menu, given to me by a waitress. This nice young girl made me smile at last. After ordering I finally found some time to look around. The interior of the cafe, filled with brown, bright red and crimson colors, perfectly matched the dark wooden furniture. Small round tables, seating too, were supplemented by bigger square tables and leather sofas available for lounging.

With the swift arrival of my food, I tried to forget about all the thoughts still crowding my mind, and began to enjoy the food. The Paradizo salad (Hr 27), from Chaikof’s Italian menu, seemed to be the best choice for the taking. The tender and soft Mozzarella cheese mixed with cuts of fresh cabbage, tomatoes and fried chicken, and sprinkled with light olive oil, was quite good; although the chicken could have been a bit juicier.

The Gazpacho (Hr 13), cold veggie soup made from fresh cucumbers, tomatoes and greens, was a delicious second course dish.

The tea brought me the greatest satisfaction, however. Out of Chaikof’s plentiful selection of tea, I chose the “Catuaba” (Hr 11), a blend of green and black tea, catuaba and rose petals. I savored its mango and peach taste and fragrant aroma. Other choices include classical and aromatic green and black tea from Hr 10 to Hr 14, herbal and fruity tea blends from Hr 10 to Hr 18, and iced tea of Hr 12. I tried the Tiramisu (Hr 9), a chocolate sponge-cake with sweet soft cream, coffee flavor and topped with chocolate powder for dessert. At this point I was finally satisfied with my late lunch.—Katerina Sirinyok


Chayny Club (7 Dryzhby Narodiv, entrance 4, apartment 60, 451-4283). www.cha.com.ua

Of all the tea rooms in Kyiv, Chayny Club has the most authentic feel. Both tea connoisseurs and those who appreciate Chinese culture have been flocking here since the club opened almost five years ago. The unpretentious space is located in the basement of a regular apartment block. Upon entering, one is directed to the coatroom where outdoor shoes are exchanged for Chinese slippers. Chayny Club is the home of elaborate ritual and so one should allot at least 40 minutes for the tea service itself.

Visiting the club alone, a member of the knowledgeable staff helped me pick out a delicious white tea, Bai Hao Tsin (Hr 58), from over 80 choices. She walked me through the tea ceremony itself several times before leaving me on my own. Lounging on the pillows piled on a sisal mat, I enjoyed the solitary reflection time and break from the harried pace of the city.

In addition to the fine teas, pricey tea sets and traditional Chinese shirts and dresses are available for purchase. Chayny Club, a “club” in the true sense of the word, also has a regular schedule of massage sessions, film screenings, concerts and tea excursions to China.—Sonia Smith


Svit Chayu (Metrograd, Ukraina mall, Promenada Center, Piramida, Furshet and elsewhere).


http://www.svit-chaju.ua

Probably the biggest chain of tea shops in Kyiv, Svit Chayu offers almost 300 kinds for purchase. Classical green and black teas range in cost from Hr 16 to 30 for 100g. Elite yellow, white and red tea will set you back from Hr 50 to Hr 200 for 100g.

Although classic black tea is always in demand, also popular are all sorts of blended tea. Herbal blends of green tea with chamomile, mint, sunflower and dog-rose range from Hr 20 to Hr 30. A hit is Cleopatra black Chinese tea (Hr 23.50 for 100g.)

Fruity blends of red tea with different natural additions such as pineapples, peaches and mango are also widely popular, ranging in cost from Hr 17 to Hr 25. Mate and all its accessories are available as well – beautifully decorated calabash pots (gourds) and bombillas will run you from Hr 80 to 250.

The tea is imported from India, China, Japan, Ceylon, Kenya and elsewhere. Mainly offering loose tea, Svit Chayu also sells tin canisters in small (25g) and large (500g) sizes as well as colorful sophisticated Chinese tea sets (Hr 15 to Hr 200 and up.) Surely, true tea lovers will also be thrilled to find cane-sugar (Hr 4 to Hr 12 for 100g) presented in a variety of kinds and tastes.

I found myself charmed by this place, being nicely served and surrounded by aromatic tea, Svit Chayu appeared to prove its name as a real world of tea!—Katerina Sirinyok




Shanti (2 Bessarabska Ploshcha,234-0108).www.shanti.kiev.ua. Open 24 Hours.

Finding myself in a poorly lit hallway after entering through a door in the side of Bessarabska market, the man in the coatroom told me “not to be shy.” With his encouragement, my companion and I made our way up the darkened stairway, feeling a little like we were being initiated into a secret society at some ivy-draped American university. That feeling quickly abated, however, once we were within Shanti’s warm tan walls.

A waitress quickly beckoned us over to one of the elevated wooden platforms, where we removed our shoes before taking a seat on one of the large brown cushions around a low table. As we browsed the menu we enjoyed the view of TGI Fridays, still visible through the dark brown roman shades.

Tea at this luxe lounge, which also has a Moscow location, is an elaborate ritual. Poring over the menu that features over 40 varieties of Chinese teas, my companion and I finally settled on a service of the aromatic zhenshen o-lun tea (Hr 128 for two to three people). Our ever attentive waitress, who resembled a Ukrainian Bjork, quickly brought out the tea set and a variety of accessories. She made us “get acquainted” with the still-dry tea which was placed in a special dish. I held it close to my nose and inhaled. After filling one pot and emptying it, we were ready to begin. We drank somewhere from seven to nine pots of tea between us, savoring each flavorful drop.

In addition to tea, upmarket Shanti serves 14 different sushi combination platters, ranging in price from Hr 70-170, as well as assorted sushi rolls and salads. A California or tuna roll will run you Hr 10 each. The tearoom’s atmosphere is peaceful—no other patrons visited during our stay—and features WiFi for the more business-minded guest. On Wednesdays and weekend evenings DJs spin, creating a lounge-like atmosphere. —Sonia Smith