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Genatsvale, in Podil, is the city’s newest purveyor of fine Georgian cuisine. Someone in search of piping hot, delicious khachapuri and other Georgian delights would be well served by a visit here. KP Media, photo by Konstantin Klimenko New Georgian eatery serves up great khachapuri and other authentic delights

neighbor, Russia has been blockading tiny Georgia for weeks, with no air, rail or sea links operating between the two countries. The government and its agents have been deporting and harassing Georgians—even those with Russian citizenship—simply because of their ethnicity. In a showing of solidarity, I decided to go to Genatsvale, that new Georgian restaurant in Podil.

Actually, my visit was not entirely selfless, as I planned on thoroughly enjoying the food. Even President George Bush can recognize the value of this particularly savory cuisine, and it seemed to be his greatest impression of Georgia from his May 2005 trip there. “Really good food. I recommend getting a bite here,” President George Bush told reporters in Tbilisi. He was so impressed that he was still talking about it during Georgian President Mikhail Saakashvili’s visit to the White House this July. “[W]e will never forget the food for which Georgia is quite famous,” Bush vowed.

Since moving to Kyiv, I have been on the hunt for authentic, affordable Georgian fare fit for Saakashvili himself. A trip to Kazbek, an up-market Georgian restaurant at 30A Lesi Ukrainki Blvd, disappointed me with its over-priced, over-cooked food and oppressive interior decoration.

Walking into Genatsvale located on Voloska, a quiet street in Podil, I was immediately struck by the scent of fresh pine—the restaurant has only been open three months and relies heavily on the wood in its furniture and decorations. Our waitress led us to our table, in an open room with pale green walls and red tablecloths. One can also sit in a pine cave of sorts, complete with red velvet curtains that can be closed for a more intimate dining experience. Georgian and Russian tunes filled the air at a comfortable volume.

The cover of the menu features a couple dressed in traditional Georgian costumes, and the inside pages, predictably, are filled with a whole slate of Georgian dishes and beverages. As I wanted to try the staples of Georgian fare, I decided to defer to the judgment of my dining companion, a specialist in Georgian cuisine. The offerings of the chef—who hails from Tibilisi—wowed us.

In my opinion, it is mandatory that any Georgian meal start with a helping of khachapuri. This cheesy Georgian bread is divine. On a recent trip to Sochi in the North Caucasus, my friends and I had embarrassingly long discussions about the merits of khachapuri. We came to the conclusion that it was the ultimate comfort food—in the same category as grilled cheese and pizza, but on a higher plane somehow. At Genatsvale, we first tried the Adzharian khachapuri (Hr 30). This flat, football-shaped piece of bread is open-faced, filled with molten cheese and topped with a raw egg, which the heat of the cheese gradually cooks. This khachapuri was fresh out of the oven and flawlessly executed. Not being a fan of eggs, raw or cooked, my friend ordered the Imeruli khachapuri (Hr 25), a circular, closed-faced piece of bread filled with cheese that was slightly less molten.

Accompanying the khachapuri we had lobio (Hr 30), a dish made of kidney beans, onions and parsley. This Georgian dish is reminiscent of ful, a fava bean stew made in many Arab countries. Our shashlik arrived next. Garnished with tangy pomegranate seeds, parsley, and onion, the pork osheek shashlik (Hr 22 per 100 g) was tender and flavorful, and much juicier than the chicken shashlik (Hr 20 per 100 g). Almost bursting with food, I could not believe we still had two dishes left to try.

I was happy I saved a little room for the khinkali (Hr 30) and chakhokbili (Hr 35), both of which I was trying for the first time. Khinkali, the Georgian take on big dumplings, was a favorite of Bush when he visited. The presentation of the five dumplings was artful, with elegant folds of dough spiraling towards a knob in the center. (I wonder if a dumpling has ever been called “elegant” before?) We thought the khinkali was filled with lamb at Genatsvale, but according to a friend they are traditionally filled with a mix of beef and pork and the filling of caraway seed and chili pepper gives it a distinctive flavor. My friend instructed us on the proper way to eat them, holding on to the knob while biting in and sucking out the flavorful juices. My attempt to do this was not as successful as my companions’, so I stuck to the knife-and-fork method.

My favorite part of the whole dinner (aside from the khachapuri) was the final course, the chakhokbili. This stewed mixture of tomatoes, chicken, onions and parsley is delicious. However, it can take up to 45 minutes to prepare, so one should show up more than an hour before closing time to partake. This culinary expedition only further confirmed my opinion that Russia is the worse for its anti-Georgian actions.

Genatsvale (18 Voloska, 331-3434). Open daily 10 a.m. till 11 p.m.

English menu: No

English-speaking staff: No