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Menswear section of the Fashion Week featured very few surprises, but still provided fashion tips for the stylish gentlemen. KP Media, photo by Oleksiy Boyko Reporting the Ukrainian Fashion Week 2008

re in full attendance at Ukrainian Fashion Week and each of them was making mental notes on the upcoming trends for the fall/winter 2008 season. Over 50 leading Ukrainian designers alongside a gamut of fresh faces presented their collections leaving a lasting impression on an audience of enthusiasts.

The event, housed in the ACCO International Exhibition Centre in Pushkin Park, took place from March 11 to 19 following Ukraine’s promising performance at the DC Fashion Week in the United States. Washington, DC hosted top Ukrainian designers Oksana Karavanska, Oleksiy Zalevskiy, Olena Burenina, Liliya Poustovit and fashion duo Tetyana Zemskova and Olena Vorozhbyt as they acquainted local fashionistas with Ukrainian talent and ingenuity.

Fashion week kicked off with an impressive dose of futuristic flair as Olga Gromova, one of Ukraine’s original fashion designers, introduced “Project 273” – the very first collection of women’s clothing from her brand new label Gromova Design.

“I tried to unite several aspects of current design into this one project: architecture, graphics, cinematography, fashion,” said Gromova. Her choice of metallic hues, dynamic arrangements and Japanese-inspired prints underlined an art-deco approach to design. After a five year hiatus from the Ukrainian fashion scene, Gromova returned with grace and professionalism displaying a powerful pret-a-porter collection for a high end clientele. Gromova Design, along with exclusive partner Avon, has plans to expand its operations into designing furniture as well as interior design.

The so called enfant terrible of Ukrainian fashion, Oleksiy Zalevskiy, put forth his aggressive, but playful canine-themed “Dress Code” collection of men’s and women’s garments that delighted the audience. Against a musical backdrop provided by a live orchestral ensemble, models brandished muzzles and twelve inch spikes in their hair and led a variety of leashed dogs down the porcelain catwalk. Fashion enthusiasts revelled at the avant-garde staging of music soothing the beast combined with Zalevskiy’s attitude-infused designs.

The nine day fashion festival also included a performance teeming with symbolism from Oksana Karavanska, arguably one of the most internationally recognized and sought after Ukrainian designers. At first glance, Karavanska`s catwalk presentations suggest seemingly haute couture inclinations. However, upon closer examination, her clothing line unveils its ready-to-wear nature, albeit her evening gowns should be reserved for high class affairs.

Staging perhaps the most bizarre and intriguing presentations of the week, Karavanska began by creating an atmosphere of comfortable unease with the help of professional musicians. Her models walked down the runway sporting outlandishly coiffed hair and then exited by way of a ladder leading to an elevated side stage – a metaphor for overcoming expectations and rising above conventional style. Inspired layering of unlikely materials showed Karavanska’s flexibility and boldness when it comes to designing “outside the box,” while keeping a level head about the average person’s sensibility. Topping off her show with patterned toques (winter hats), spider web cuts and alternative handbags oozing originality, left fashion buffs wide-eyed and awestruck.

Fashion duo Tatyana Zemskova and Olena Vorozhbyt showed off their ready-to-wear collection made for the modern woman who desires practicality without sacrificing style. Updating classic motifs, Zemskova and Vorozhbyt’s low cut boots, loose fitting dress pants and modest, yet appealing skirts pleased enthused spectators. Large collars and fur coats also gave their collection a warmer look fit for chillier weather.

Anna Sosnovskaya’s intriguing men’s clothing line was particularly worthy of mention. Sosnovskaya, a relatively new name on the Ukrainian fashion circuit deliberately composed “dark alley” ambience complete with sinister looking male models – made so, thanks in part to the strategic application of dark makeup and war paint. Models strutted down the runway wearing “testosterone with a twist” designs. In other words, masculinity was underscored with feminine attributes, namely high collar shirts, scooped neck lines, tight fitted sleeves and military style knee-high flat boots. Sosnovskaya’s innovative designs showed future promise and many fashion aficionados will patiently await her collections for next season.

Several other designers decided to stick to menswear including Alexandr Gapchuk, whose collection comprised of patterned coats, fur trim and tapered pants, accessorized with oversized handbags and aviator sunglasses. Serhiy Smolin, designer for the label IDoL, presented his “Global Chick” line of menswear for the “take charge” modern man. The collection was mostly clean cut and conservative, juxtaposed with funky prints and textured materials. Noteworthy features included black leather gloves, long trench coats with fur trim, skinny belts and oversized scarves.

Ukrainian Fashion Week was brought to a close with Liliya Poustovit’s collection of women’s clothing defined by streaks of symmetry and hints of practicality. Her colours matched the season with blacks, silvers, shades of brown and heavy creams occasionally throwing in deliberate contrasts of flamingo pink and cobalt blue. Her exposure and experience with designers from Western Europe is revealed with smart skirts and a tendency towards high quality materials.

Almost 15 years ago, Poustovit began her designing career with her first show at the Easter Wind Exhibition in Toulouse, France. She found recognition and esteem abroad and shortly thereafter returned to develop Ukraine’s fashion scene. Her designs are sold in nine boutiques around the world, including one in the famous Dover Street Market in London, England. Despite her worldwide recognition, she resides and works in Ukraine displaying her works twice a year at Ukrainian Fashion Week and Russian Fashion Week.

As nine days of models, runways and high heels were brought to an end, the air was electric with anticipation. Ukrainian fashion had just taken another step forward, adding to the momentum that has been building over the past decade. With continued hard work, diligence, dedication and proper investment, the fashion industry in Ukraine might someday become a true competitor on the international scene. For now, we will have to wait until next season to find out what this nation’s talented team of designers have in store for us next.


What’s hot for the Fall/Winter 2008 Season

For women – platform heels, low cut boots, elbow length leather gloves were especially fashionable. Chiffon and silk long sleeve blouses paired with longer skirts were popular as designers opted out of shorter summer wear in favour of knee-length apparel. Layers of varying rich materials consistently appeared throughout collections, again, showing a penchant for a warmer look.

For men, skinny belts, pointed dress shoes, tapered pants and coats with waist belts were prominent. The general theme centered on sophistication and finesse, whilst retaining a sense of masculinity and sensibility.

Fur trim and oversized handbags were popular for both men’s and women’s collections

As for colours of the season, blacks, browns, greys and whites stood out along with shades of champagne, gold and cream. Contrast, especially using bold reds, blues and greens was also popular.


Designer: Olga Gromova

What you’ll find: Kimono-inspired gowns, flared sleeves and post-modern evening wear. The Gromova Design collection is only available by personal invitation from the designer herself, or through a recommendation of a current client.

Designer: Oleksiy Zalevskiy

What you’ll find: Fur, leather and denim from edgy to elegant with a canine trim. Look for his collections at Sunny and Mikhaella (43 Saksahanskoho, Modniy Kvartal, Bolshevik Shopping Centre (6 Hetmana); Modniy Kvartal, Alta-Centre Shopping Centre, 2nd floor, (11A Moskovskiy Prospect).

Designer: Oksana Karavanska

What you’ll find: Haute couture, pret-a-porter and everything in between, not to mention her line of inventive handbags. Look for her collection at Boutique Oksana Karavanska (29/1 Khreschatyk).

Designer: Liliya Poustovit

What you’ll find: A chic, modern look for modern women everywhere. Find her collection at Atelier 1 located in Hotel Vozdvizhenskiy (60 Vozdvizhenska).

Designer: Zemskova and Vorozhbyt

What you’ll find: Classic chic for the new businesswomen – at work, at home and out on the town.Look for their collection at West Mont (48Chervonoarmiyska) and Nashe, Olimpiyskiy Mall, 3rd floor (72 Chervonoarmiyska).

Designer: Anna Sosnovskaya

What you’ll find: A men’s line that screams masculinity with undertones suggesting delicate strength. Look for her collection online at www.anns.com.ua or visit her studio for a custom design located on 18-5 Harmatna.

Designer: Alexandr Gapchuk

What you’ll find: Smart suits and even smarter coats – for the modern man who is looking to update his look. Look for his collection at 21 Beloruska or shop online at www.gapchuk.com.

Designer: Serhiy Smolin for TM IDoL

What you’ll find: Confident clothing intended for the man who feels comfortable in his own skin. Look for his collection at his studio located on (75 Artema, office No.1.; www.fashionweek.com.ua)