Ferry offers chance to get a glimpse of village life in Kaniv
KANIV – Avid cyclists who want to escape the heavy traffic and toxic exhaust in Kyiv – but don’t want to spend an entire day getting out of town – have an option that offers scenic views and a refreshing, relaxing journey: They can hop on a ferry and cruise down the Dnipro to Kaniv.
Kaniv, which is about 150 kilometers south of Kyiv, has just about everything needed for a great overnight bicycle trip: a variety of trails, a wide range of scenery and inexpensive accommodations. And getting there by ferry is half the adventure.
If you plan to take this trip on a weekend, especially a Saturday, buy tickets for the ferry at least three days in advance because the boat fills up fast with people going to their dachas in the villages that line the Dnipro.
If tickets are sold out, it’s still possible to get on the ferry by buying a ticket directly from the captain. Show up to the dock 30 minutes before departure and expect to buy two tickets – one for you and one for your bike.
It’s still a novelty for ferry captains to have bicycles onboard, so there is no established system. Generally, you’ll be told to lock your bike to the railings along the roof of the ferry outside as there is no room down in the cabin for bicycles. The main seating area in the interior of the ferry is crowded and unbearably stuffy, so it’s best to stay on the roof outside with your bike. Keep in mind that once the boat gets moving at top speed, the wind is very strong. Bring a jacket and pants – even on a scorching hot day.
The ferry departs Kyiv about 8 a.m. and arrives in Kaniv at the terminal near Taras Shevchenko’s burial place, Tarasova Gora, about 11:30 a.m. after making numerous stops along the Dnipro. The ferry will return at 4 p.m. to take passengers back to Kyiv.
For an ideal day trip, start your journey on the main road below Tarasova Gora. Take the paved road south along the Dnipro. After about three kilometers, the road forks – a gravel path leads to the river and a paved road leads inland.
The inland road takes cyclists through bucolic villages and offers a nice glimpse of country life. Take the road about six kilometers until you reach the tiny village of Khmilna, turn left and cross the Ros River. Once across the river, turn left again and head toward the Dnipro. The road will turn to gravel and eventually will become a dirt path that skirts the river for about eight kilometers.
The first village along the way is Khreshchatyk. About five kilometers beyond the village, the path leads to an odd-shaped, circular isthmus that offers spectacular views of many tiny islands in the Dnipro. The path is a narrow, five-kilometer loop surrounded on both sides by water and islands.
To return to Kaniv, either go back the way you came, or after leaving the isthmus, turn left to the village of Tuboltsi. Pass through Tuboltsi and continue to the main highway called T-13. Follow signs to Mykhailivka and then onto Khmilna.
Obviously it’s a good idea to get a good map. You can find one at most bookstores in Kyiv. Ask for a map of Cherkaska oblast.
The entire trip can take anywhere from three to six hours, depending on the number of stops or detours.
If you’re spending the night in Kaniv and are looking for another trip to fill the time before the next day’s ferry to Kyiv, try taking the road leading north past the center of Kaniv. Cross the bridge over the hydroelectric dam and take the paved road that skirts the left bank of the river. The road abuts the river for about 10 kilometers before it juts inland.
There are numerous pristine spots in the forest along the river bank to take a swim or enjoy a picnic lunch.
Overnighting is a twice-monthly column featuring recreation opportunities in Ukraine. If you have a recreation question or a suggestion for this page, please contact us at [email protected].
