Sedniv, a cozy little town in Chernihiv Oblast on the picturesque banks of the Snov River, is rarely mentioned in the travel guides.
And this is a bit unfair to Sedniv, as it is the place of dramatic history, stunning architecture and beautiful landscapes.
Founded in the early 11th century, the town saw its peak in 16th – early 20th centuries when it was the family nest of the Lyzohubs, a Cossack dynasty. The history of this family is closely interwoven with the history of Ukraine.
The Lyzohubs took part in many historical battles, they influenced Ukraine’s political and economic landscape for centuries till the beginning of the 20th century when Fedir Lyzohub, the family’s last representative, who was Ukraine’s Prime Minister briefly in 1917, fled to Serbia after the Bolshevik Revolution.
The memory of this glorious Cossack family now lives in several Sedniv buildings that form the picturesque architectural ensemble in the center of the town. One of those buildings, the one-domed wooden St. George Church, dates back to the 16th century. It is built without a single nail in so-called Cossack baroque style. Apart from the unique architecture, the church is known as a filming location for “Viy” (1967), the first Soviet horror movie and an adaptation of a story by Mykola Gogol. The church is open daily from 9 a.m. till 6 p.m.
Near the St. George church there is a so-called Lyzohub’s Kamyanytsya, a white-stone 17th century house. Kamyanytsya is believed to be the oldest stone building in Sedniv. Its architecture combines fortification features and traditional Ukrainian berth’s design – the building has four rooms while its exterior looks like a two-tier tower with merlons and counterforts.
The Voskresenska (Resurrection) Church which is not far from the Kamyanytsya is also worth visiting. The ancient church has beautiful baroque architecture and for centuries was used as the Lyzohubs’ burial vault.
Time did not spare the Lyzohub palace. Today it is a shabby and empty building. However, the aristocratic balls and receptions of the past years echo within its walls. The palace is surrounded by a landscape park. It was built during the 19th century as a one-storied building with the oriel window in the center. After the Soviets came to power in 1919 the manor was looted and the park was destroyed. Nowadays the Chernihiv Historical Museum allocates money for the building’s restoration.
One can order a guided English language tour at www.sedniv.esy.es for Hr 200 for a group on weekends only. It’s recommended to book a tour a week in advance.
Where to eat, sleep and entertain
A café at the Kinniy Dvir (Horse Yard) holiday cottage offers traditional Ukrainian cuisine – varenyky (dumplings) with various stuffing, Ukrainian beetroot soup borshch, salo (pork lard) with garlic, and a duck stuffed with apples. A dinner without drinks costs Hr 100 per person on average.
The highlight of staying at the cottage is the eco-friendly accommodation – guests can sleep on the mattresses stuffed with fresh hay. The room costs Hr 200 per night.
One may also take a horseback-riding lesson here for Hr 150 per hour. For more information visit www.koni.in.ua.
How to get there
By car. Take the E95 road from Kyiv to Chernihiv. From Chernihiv take road P13 to Sedniv. The drive is around 170 kilometers and 2.5 hours.
By bus. Take a Kyiv – Chernihiv bus from near Demiyanivska metro station in Kyiv for Hr 174-188. Then take an hourly bus from Chernihiv to Sedniv for Hr 15.
