Ternopil: A quiet, western, lakeside summer getaway

Ternopil, located on a crossing of the ways between Europe, Scandinavia, and the East, has long played a strategic role in epic events in Ukrainian history. But these days, the city of 215,000 citizens is best known for its educational institutions – four national universities – and outdoor leisure activities.

The city’s main tourist draw is the vast Ternopil pond (more like a mid-sized lake), located right in the city center. An artificial pond built as a fortification, the 300-hectare water area is a favorite leisure spot for both locals and tourists. Moreover, most of the sights of Ternopil can be found dotted along the pond’s edges.

Several options are available for exploring the lake: a ferry crosses from one side of the reservoir to a public beach on the opposite bank for Hr 15 (return ticket). Once the beach, one can rent a sun umbrella, a sunbed or attend a beach summer party. Swimming is not forbidden, but the water in the lake might not be very clean.

Those who seek more privacy can rent a motorboat or sailboat (at prices starting from Hr 150 per hour). Some boats can carry up to ten people.

Blessed as it is with its sizable lake, Ternopil has won the right to host the world and European championships in powerboat and aquabike racing on August 27-28. Since the first championships in 2002, the local authorities have invested a significant amount of money in enhancing infrastructure, and repairing paths and lighting in the lakeside parks.

However, the frequent steady breezes across the lake also make it an ideal spot for windsurfing.

But its not all water activities – there’s plenty more to explore in the rest of the city. With its eight parks, Ternopil is a good destination for a family vacation. One of the best is Topilche park, built on reclaimed wetlands. The park is bisected by a river channel and features several small lakes. It is the location for several summer festivals as well.

Ternopil city center was completely destroyed during the Second World War, so there’s not a great deal here for lovers of old architecture. However, careful reconstruction has almost recreated the appearance of several of the city’s narrow streets and stone churches. To soak up some Renaissance atmosphere, visit the city’s oldest church, the Church of the Holy Cross, built in the 16th century (16 Nad Stavom St.).

Ternopil Castle was a fortification constructed on the bank of the lake by Polish nobleman Jan Tarnowski. However, the present castle, rebuilt after the war, looks more like a private house and hosts a state sports organization.

As a cultural crossroads, Ternopil’s local cuisine is a mixture of traditional Ukrainian, Polish or purely local dishes. The restaurants and cafes around the city also frequently offer local craft beer, which seems as popular a drink as mineral water in the town.

Two of city’s finest restaurants, the Kovcheg and Staryi Mlyn, could be mistaken for museums at first glance: In fact, these two food establishments are owned by the same businessman, who is a collector of Ukrainian antiques. Built on the site of an old mill, Staryi Mlyn offers traditional Ukrainian borshch beet soup, served in a loaf of bread instead of a plate, a casserole with potatoes and meat, varenyky, and other traditional dishes.

Kovcheg restaurant is made of wood, in the shape of Noah’s Ark, and is indeed named after the Biblical vessel. Try a spicy pan dish with potatoes, bacon and mozzarella, or pork ribs in a sauce made from Jack Daniel’s whiskey. Craft beer, brewed in the restaurant itself, is a must try as well, as is the homemade beer ice cream for dessert.

The Bunkermuz gallery and restaurant is also worth a visit. Its several rooms offer a painting and photo exhibitions, a bar, restaurant, and outdoor terrace (1 Tarasa Shevchenka Blvd.).

Ternopil is a great base from which to see the best sight of western Ukraine and the country’s western border region. It takes four hours to get from Ternopil to the heart of the Carpathian Mountains by car, and just two hours to get to Poland.

How to get there:

By train. Ternopil is located on the main line to the country’s western cities. Night trains depart from Kyiv Central Railway Station to Ternopil several times a day. The trip takes 7-8 hours. An express train departs at 06:50 a.m. every day – that trip takes less than six hours. A one-way ticket starts at Hr 250.

By car. Ternopil is 480 kilometers away from Kyiv. The drive takes nearly six hours.

By plane. There are no longer any flights to Ternopil. The last flight from Kyiv took place in 2010. Since then, the city’s airport has been the venue for a music festival and street racing competitions.

Where to stay:

The Ternopil Hotel is located in a reconstructed Soviet building next to the castle in the center of the old city, on 14 Zamkova St. As it is built on a hill, the hotel has a good view of the lake. Prices here start at Hr 540 for a single room with a lake view.

For those who want to get even closer to the water, the Sapsan Hotel (49A Biletska St.) fits the bill. Rooms start at Hr 520 per night at this small hotel located on the lake bank (breakfast included).

Where to eat:

Restaurant Kovcheg (5 Zhyvova St.) offers Ukrainian, Georgian, and Polish dishes, served with craft beer. The price of lunches starts from Hr 60. Pasta Fresca restaurant (23 Tarasa Shevchenka Blvd.) is a good choice for Italian food. The Faine Misto pub in the very next building offers traditional Ukrainian cuisine, snacks, and local beers. Try Mykulynetske or Opillya beer – all brewed within a distance of 20 kilometers. Closer to the lake, the summer terrace of Maxim restaurant (1 Biletska St.) offers sushi, drinks, and deserts.