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You're reading: Bessarabia, Ukraine and Europe

Our guide says it’s hard to be sure who built which bits: over the past two millennia, the site has been occupied by Greeks, Romans, Poles, Goths, Huns, Moldovans, Hungarians, Bulgarians, Tatars, Russians, Genoese and Turks.

Down the road there was even a settlement of German-speaking Swiss, producing wine from 1820 until evicted by the Soviet Union in 1940.

The bastions we’re admiring belong to the Fortress of Akkerman, located on the Black Sea coast at the settlement of Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi, founded in the 6th Century BC about an hour south of what is now Odesa.

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