CATANIA – PALERMO, Italy – Sicily, the Mediterranean island once home to influential crime bosses both real and fictional, is now a pleasant tourist destination where ancient cities are filled with friendly locals and surrounded by snowy mountains and a warm ocean.
The largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily was long known as a dangerous place to visit and even more dangerous to live in. The local mafia infiltrated all spheres of life, bribed government officials and waged war on those not willing to accept their authority.
After a series of successful campaigns against organized crime in the late 80s and early 90s, Sicily became an attractive tourist destination with theft rates among the lowest in Italy. It is welcoming but still not overcrowded, especially in low season.
Today, Sicily offers many perks – ancient Greek monuments built by contemporaries of Archimedes, a Sicilian native, unique medieval cathedrals built in the lavish Sicilian Baroque style and breathtaking landscapes, including Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest active volcano.
The prices in Sicily are also pleasant for those on a budget, allowing tourists to enjoy a true Italian vacation at a lower price than in other parts of Italy.
Arriving in Catania
Catania, Sicily’s second-largest city, is situated on the island’s east coast and serves as Sicily’s main gateway. The city lies at the foot of Mount Etna and hosts tourists planning to visit the 3,300-meter volcano.
Yet Catania isn’t just a stopover. The city has many historic landmarks such as the Saint Agatha Cathedral and the Basilica della Collegiata.
In 1693, Sicily experienced a devastating earthquake that almost entirely destroyed the city. Then under Spanish rule, Catania was rapidly rebuilt, giving birth to a unique style known as Sicilian Baroque which features lavish sculptors and flamboyant decor.
Besides architecture, Catania also introduces visitors to Sicilian cuisine. While the food features well-known Italian pasta and pizza dishes, it focuses more on fish and seafood rather than meat. Trying swordfish and cuttlefish ink pasta is a must, while shrimp, mussels and calamari caught by local fishermen are a safe bet for a tasty launch.
Sicily has also unique street food, and Catania is the place to try it. A couple of arancinis (fried rice balls usually filled with mozzarella cheese, ham and often peas) helps you get through a day of sightseeing, while cannoli pastries — tube-shaped shells of fried pastry dough filled with a sweet and creamy ricotta cheese — will sweeten your trip.
Santa Filomena Street is a prime location, filled with restaurants and bars offering a variety of local dishes complemented with local wines and a surprisingly large selection of Sicilian craft beers.
Ancient Greece around the corner
Catania is also a comfortable layover if you are planning to visit the ancient cities of Syracuse and Taormina, located 50 kilometers south and 50 kilometers north of the city.
Syracuse, built in the 8th century B.C., was a major Greek port and cultural hub. Located on the southeastern tip of Sicily, it was a key location that allowed the city to influence Mediterranean trade routes and export culture at a level comparable to that of Athens and Sparta.
Roman statesman Cicero described Syracuse as “the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all.”
Today, the city’s historic center – Ortigia Island – blends ancient Greek and medieval Italian architecture and is separated from the rest of the city by a thin canal.
The island features an ancient fort where Archimedes helped the Greeks fight off a Roman invasion. The city eventually fell to the Romans in 212 B.C., forfeiting Sicily and handing the Romans the keys to the Mediterranean.
A picture shows the Greek theater of Taormina on February 15, 2017. (AFP)
North of Catania lies Taormina, a mountainous city of less historic significance but no less beauty. Built in the 5th century B.C., the city was in the midst of a tug of war between Greeks and Romans until it eventually fell to Rome.
The city’s main landmark is an ancient Greek theater located on one of the city’s many hills. While the theater has been on hiatus for the past 2,000 years, a view of Etna and the beautiful little city at the foot of the volcano will cheer up those hoping for a performance.
Both Syracuse and Taormina are an hour’s drive from Catania, yet they will take up the whole day, as it is easy to get lost in the narrow streets of these culturally rich cities of the past.
Capital gloss
While most Sicilian tourist attractions are situated on the island’s east coast, it is impossible to truly embrace Sicily without visiting Palermo, the island’s largest and most culturally diverse city, located on the northwest coast.
Palermo was found in the 8th century B.C. by Phoenicians and was later ruled by Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans. Each rule left a distinct footprint, giving the city a truly unique look, with narrow streets and countless domed churches.
The square in front of Palermo Cathedral, Palermo, Italy. (Courtesy )
The Palermo Cathedral, which broke ground in the 12th century, blends Norman, Moorish and Baroque architectural styles. The cathedral’s rooftop view is the best way to end your Sicilian vacation.
It is important to mention that Sicily is not only a beautiful place — it is also a safe one.
Cosa Nostra, the Sicilian mafia, had long been an obstacle for the local population to enjoy a peaceful life. After years of unsuccessful attempts to halt the mafia’s influence, two local prosecutors, Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, began a major campaign against local crime bosses resulting in the Maxi Trail, which placed hundreds of criminals behind bars. The mafia assassinated both Falcone and Borsellino in 1992, causing public upheaval against the mafia and widespread support for the government’s crackdown on the remaining Mafiosi.
Today Cosa Nostra still exists, but it’s unseen on the streets and doesn’t interact with tourists in any way.
Vito Corleone, portrayed by Marlon Brando in the iconic crime drama “The Godfather,” is the only Mafioso you’ll spot, with his face printed on T-shirts and magnets in local souvenir shops.
The island is also a good example to those countries battling corruption – restoring the rule of law and opening up to the world improves the population’s wellbeing.
Today, Sicily is a lifestyle story rather than a criminal one.
How to get there
Tickets from Kyiv to Catania will cost Hr 2,000 ($80) per person on average, with a short stopover in Vienna. From Palermo to Kyiv, a flight through Malta can be booked on average for Hr 2,500 ($100).
Where to stay
A one-bedroom apartment through Booking.com in downtown Catania or Palermo will cost around $50 per night.
Transport in Sicily
For a roundtrip from Catania to Syracuse – take a train, for a trip from Catania to Taormina a bus is the best option. The cost of each trip is around $10. In Catania, the bus station is next to the train station and is located within walking distance from the city center.
A one-way bus ticket from Catania to Palermo is around $15.
